This post honors my dear friend Kim Stafford, Oregon’s most celebrated poet. Friends of his, including many famous writers, gathered at Kim and Perrin’s house on May 6, 2018, to celebrate what would soon be an official announcement, namely…that Kim would be named Poet Laureate of Oregon!
Kim asked us all to bring him a poem. I opted to instead write a blog post celebrating his love for Oregon–and to be their unofficial photographer! 🙂
Speaking of celebrations and photos, a collection of pictures from the beautiful party honoring Kim Stafford is at the end of this post.
Kim’s muse is his beloved home state, particularly the natural areas surrounding both his childhood home in Lake Oswego and his current home located four miles north via the scenic John Olmsted-designed Terwilliger Boulevard.
I’ve wanted to write a post to honor Professor Stafford for a long time, and while researching the best way to complement, through pictures, his “Essays of Place,” I found several fascinating “natural” coincidences that were just too perfect!
For starters, it’s a 100-mile hike from the woods right behind Kim’s boyhood home to the northwest tip of Oregon—and nearly the entire walk can be done deep in the woods, thanks to two massive, truly unique in the U.S. natural areas that cut a wide, nearly continuous corridor through Southwest and Northwest Portland.
And the small corridor of Terwilliger where Kim and his wife live happens to play a literally “central” role in this nearly unbroken 100-mile-long emerald crescent, as will gradually be revealed.
There’s also a fascinating coincidence between Kim’s boyhood home, his longtime current home, his poetry, Lewis & Clark the explorers and Lewis & Clark College that will unfold during this post! 🙂
This post will be a four-part journey, with Portland’s unparalleled “Wild in the City” (a reference that credits another great Oregon writer and explorer, Mike Houck) at its core.
The first part will be the “Primrose to Palatine” journey from Kim’s home to the three distinct, path-connected campuses of Lewis & Clark College.
Part two will be a brief exploration of the three unique campuses of Lewis & Clark College, where Professor Kim Stafford has taught since 1979.
Part three will be a journey north from Kim’s house along the famous Terwilliger corridor that offers incredible views of every type.
The fourth and final journey will be a deep forest excursion south from Kim’s current home to the one where he grew up.
Fittingly, nearly the entire journey can be done deep in the woods of Tryon Creek State Natural Area, whose eastern border is the famous Terwilliger Boulevard from the Olmsted Portland Park Plan.
I’ll conclude with a collection of photos from a very special gathering of family, friends and fellow writers at Kim and Perrin’s home to honor Kim’s lifelong writing accomplishments:
Part 1: Primrose to Palatine
Fittingly, Kim Stafford lives right off Primrose Street, the perfect starting point for a scenic journey along Palatine to the three beautiful campuses of Lewis & Clark College.
Our journey to Lewis & Clark College continues east and south via SW Palatine Hill Road, nearly all of which is in a beautiful forested canopy:
Some of the streets off of SW Palatine Hill Road have an English countryside feel, despite being half a mile from thousands of daily commuters on Hwy 43. One of Kim’s friends in high school actually started a band named “Aventine Circus” in honor of the bucolic street pictured below:
SW Palatine Hill Road snakes its way through three huge natural areas and alongside the three campuses of Lewis & Clark College. And it all starts exactly 1000 feet from Kim Stafford’s home.
If you’re willing to explore just one block south from Palatine, you’ll be rewarded with a visit to the gorgeous Ahavai Sholom Cemetery. It was established in 1869; yet, it remains a hidden gem in right the city:
I love the coincidences that this place has for me, as well. I took the picture above from where the Davis family rests. And the location of this beautiful historic cemetery is SW 1st & Alice, which is perfect, as I’m the first-born son of Alice Davis! 🙂
Part 2: Exploring Lewis & Clark
No one would appreciate the double entendre more than Kim Stafford, who often thought of those famous explorers while venturing in the woods near home—and not realizing that he’d later become a professor at the school named for the explorers!
The first campus of Lewis & Clark that you encounter on the “Primrose to Palatine” journey is the Law School, where Governor Kate Brown and Congressmen Earl Blumenauer (Oregon’s two most famous politicians currently in office) graduated.
The school is often ranked as the nation’s top environmental law school, which is fitting, given Portland’s environmental ethos.
I can picture Kim Stafford walking in the corridors that blend buildings and nature while he starts composing his next great work of prose or poetry:
Every campus of Lewis & Clark offers many scenic places for Kim Stafford to create more poetry that the world will cherish:
A few blocks east of the Law School via SW Palatine (or any number of scenic walks through more rural streets) is the undergrad campus of Lewis & Clark College, which is near the top of more lists of “most beautiful college campus” than any other school I’ve seen.
There are lots of little hidden corridors where I can picture Kim Stafford getting inspired to write his next book or poem. In fact, his office used to be right below the top of the “ship” in this image. It’s always been one of my favorite little side corridors to explore on campus:
Many benches await Kim and his ever-present notebook!
Quiet corridors and hidden trails lead in all directions both through and between all three campuses, including down 500 vertical feet to the Willamette River:
The final Lewis & Clark College campus you reach on the “Primrose to Palatine” journey from Kim’s home is the Graduate School of Education & Counseling, where he directs the Northwest Writing Institute:
Interestingly, all three campuses lie along the only stretch of Palatine Hill Road that’s flat—and it happens to be at an elevation of exactly 500 feet. This is the sign directly between the Undergrad and Graduate School of Lewis & Clark:
The Graduate School is the newest and least developed of the three campuses, so it has a more open feel—perfect for picnics, reading under orchards, or setting up a hammock:
The campus served as a convent for the Philadelphia-based Sisters of Saint Francis from 1943-2000. The large chapel and the stained glass on surrounding buildings serve as a reminder of its former use.
You’re never more than 1000 feet from the woods on any of the three connected campuses of Lewis & Clark College. They’ve undoubtedly provided countless hours of peaceful contemplation for Oregon’s most beloved poet. Kim also told me that the Sisters from Philadelphia at one time had the “12 Stations of the Cross” attached to 12 consecutive large trees along the path below:
Right next to the former “12 Stations of the Cross” trail is this old shed that Kim once wanted to use as a writers retreat! 🙂
Part 3: Tracing Terwilliger north
The first journey from Kim Stafford’s house led us to Lewis & Clark. The final journey will take us on an even more primeval path to his boyhood home. This middle journey will explore the beautiful Terwilliger corridor north from his house.
A lot of the highlights along the route occur at an elevation of exactly 500 feet:
Terwilliger Boulevard, the greatest intact legacy of the Olmsted Portland Park Plan, runs for many miles through a magical ribbon of green that extends from the base of Tryon Creek in Lake Oswego (just blocks from where Kim Stafford grew up) northward for 10 winding miles, nearly reaching downtown Portland.
One of the most fascinating coincidences that I recently noticed is that Kim Stafford and his wife happen to live within a few blocks of the exact center of the stunning Terwilliger corridor that winds its way through forested hillsides from his boyhood home all the way to the edge of downtown Portland.
It seems to fitting—downright poetic, in fact—that Kim Stafford chose to live exactly where he does now.
Trails through deep woods take you directly to the massive Oregon Health & Sciences University. I love the coincidence with the 500-foot elevations:
Side trails off both OHSU and Terwilliger Blvd lead in all directions; you can even walk a deep forested corridor to the highest point in the area (Council Crest) and often not encounter anyone on the trail for miles despite being just feet away from an enormous medical campus:
Not that I mind seeing others enjoying these many miles of trails:
I love this artwork near the Marquam Park trailhead. I can see Kim Stafford writing something similar: “Tranquility reminds us that we are a small part of nature in a place where listening and looking inspire us.”
There’a a very special placemaking creation near SW 12th & Gaines that’s reached via an unmarked trail off a side trail in Marquam Nature Park. It’s called the Barbara Walker Vortex (named for one of Portland’s most beloved trails advocates), and it’s something everyone should check out. I’m happy to provide exact directions on how to reach it:
At this point, you’ll surely be alone with nature when approaching the spot that was beautifully designed by Mark Lakeman, by far my favorite placemaking expert on Earth. But Mark wants it to be shared and enjoyed by all.
This totem at Panarama Point on Terwilliger Boulevard is over two miles south of OHSU. But it’s also situated at exactly 500 feet in elevation. I don’t think anyone else notices or cares about this stuff, but I find it fascinating. 🙂
Part 4: The journey to Kim’s childhood home via his favorite natural area
This final journey takes us through Kim Stafford’s favorite woods to where his explorations all began…
This is my favorite of all the journeys. It’s most fitting of all that nearly the entire corridor between Kim’s current home and his boyhood home is filled by Tryon Creek State Natural Area, the only Oregon state park that’s fully contained within a major city. And it’s the park that he enjoyed exploring most of all.
Tryon Creek is a square mile of paradise whose southern border is a couple blocks from Kim’s childhood home, whose northern border is a short walk from his current home, and whose northeastern edge connects directly to his professional home: Lewis & Clark College.
There are endless places to inspire writers in these woods:
I always think of Kim Stafford when I see and smell skunk cabbage. Pictured below, it’s typically in full “stinking bloom” in mid-May. One of his quotes recalling his boyhood from “The Separate Hearth” goes as follows: “Let’s go to the Old Mill and make a fort! Let’s wade as far we can without stepping out of the creek—so that no one can track us! Let’s roast a skunk cabbage root and try to eat it!”
I had a great talk with the retired biologist pictured below. She has been walking the trails of Tryon Creek almost daily for 42 years:
She knew seemingly every type of flower in the park, and she pointed out interesting features that I can’t begin to remember.
However, this outgoing biologist had never been to an amazing treasure that lies on the opposite side of the large park (though she had certainly heard of it). TLC Farm is such a wonderful place and educational resource that I’ll feature it now with its own special section:
Tryon Life Community Farm: a treasure within a state park
A lot of people aren’t aware of an amazing community with the most primeval of settings, right in the middle of a major metro area. Tryon Life Community Farm demonstrates and educates people about sustainable living within the urban growth boundary.
Its outreach, inclusion, sylvan setting, sustainability ethos, loving spirit and emphasis on education and sharing are the perfect embodiment of Kim Stafford. So, it’s perfectly fitting that TLC Farm is in his favorite local park.
All the buildings are made of a combination cob (the world’s most sustainable building material), local wood, and objects that are recycled and re-used materials. “Cob” is a natural building material composed of subsoil (the layer of soil below the topsoil), water and straw.
I love all the communal gathering places. Kim’s favorite way to dine is outdoors, surrounded by lots of friends, laughter and music.
There are many places where I can picture Kim composing his great works of the day. As his father famously did, Kim starts writing very early every morning.
There are some interesting places to stay at TLC Farm, as well:
TLC Farm has a strong educational component. They have a popular outdoor preschool, permaculture training, workshops and more. Similarly, Kim Stafford conducts writing workshops throughout the year in stunning settings throughout Oregon.
Part four: back home to where it all began
The images in the previous section are dominated by Tryon Creek State Natural Area, which Kim Stafford has explored as much as anyone, starting from early childhood, when he lived a block away from the deep forest and endless magical, mysterious ravines marking the southern end of the large state park.
Kim begins his description of “The Woods” through the eyes of his own childhood: “We called it ‘The Woods.” just as we called a nearby slope ‘The Big Hill’; the limited territory of childhood is exact, and therefore mythic.”
Kim’s prose continues: “Two blocks from home, the human world dwindled to a path threading through nettle and alder. A spider web across the path meant no one was there before me. I crawled under its fragile gate to solitude and was gone.”
Kim’s famous father, the great American poet (and first poet laureate of Oregon) William Stafford, also wrote many stanzas about nature among his 22,000 published poems. One of his poems is forever engraved across from his old house, in Stafford Grove:
Kim’s walk to school was zero homes away; their property lines literally bordered each other:
You can read a long interview with members of William Stafford’s family here. Below is another view of Stafford Grove:
First Addition: the historic Lake Oswego neighborhood where Kim Stafford grew up
Starting two blocks north of Kim’s boyhood home was a vast wilderness area that he enjoyed exploring every day. But his neighborhood also provided a great deal of beauty and inspiration. Below is just a small sample of old neighborhood.
Below is the Johnson Barn, whose demolition I’ve worried about (and written Lake Oswego City Council) for years; it finally got saved! The barn is named for Clifford “Happy” Johnson, Lake Oswego’s first postal carrier to procure a delivery wagon; he used it as a horse barn. Johnson was also the first mail carrier in the area to use a car to deliver mail. It’s the last remaining barn in First Addition and one of the last of its type found within Portland’s Urban Growth Boundary.
The New Thought Center for Spiritual Living is also a short walk from Kim’s old home; it’s Portland’s main affiliate of the United Centers for Spiritual Living. Its teachings are associated with authors such as Wayne Dyer, Deepak Chopra and Eckhart Tolle.
Every street in every direction seems to be lined with beautiful flowers and vegetation that celebrates the Willamette Valley’s lush, temperate climate:
I bet that Kim managed to find every pocket park in the neighborhood:
Lake Oswego itself
I couldn’t resist adding a little section on Lake Oswego, the gorgeous suburb of Portland containing Kim’s historic old neighborhood of First Addition. Kim loved exploring Foothills Park and other areas near both the Willamette River and the namesake lake itself.
At home with Kim and Perrin, their family and friends
On May 6, 2018, a large group of family, friends and fellow writers gathered for a special party to honor Kim Stafford’s lifetime of writing and teaching. I was really happy to be able to get some great shots of folks that have known and loved Kim & Perrin and the Stafford family for decades…
Thanks for the great travelogue, Tim Davis. Feels like I’m right there!
Thanks so much, John! 🙂 It was so fun researching this corridor for Oregon’s beloved poet and finding all kinds of surprising coincidences with his homes and places where he teaches!